Collagen has become one of the biggest buzzwords in beauty and wellness, featuring in everything from face creams to daily supplements. Promoted as the key to youthful, plump skin, the protein is now at the centre of a global industry worth billions. But does collagen really deliver on its promises, and are collagen drinks more effective than creams and serums?
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body. It provides structure and elasticity to the skin, keeping it firm and smooth. As we age, natural collagen production declines, leading to fine lines, wrinkles and loss of volume. Sun exposure, smoking and poor diet can accelerate this process.
In response, the beauty industry has produced a wave of collagen-based products. Topical creams often claim to replenish the skin’s collagen, while oral supplements promise to boost production from within. However, the way the body processes collagen determines how effective each method can be.
Oral vs topical
Collagen creams may support the skin’s moisture barrier and reduce dryness, yet ingredients that stimulate collagen production, such as retinoids, peptides and vitamin C, are often more effective for topical use than collagen itself.
By contrast, oral collagen supplements have shown more promising results in scientific studies. These supplements typically contain hydrolysed collagen, or collagen peptides, which are broken down into smaller amino acids. Once ingested, they are absorbed through the digestive system and distributed throughout the body, where they can help stimulate new collagen formation.
Research
Research suggests that collagen peptides can enhance the body’s production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Over time, this can lead to improvements in skin elasticity, hydration and texture.
A review published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology in 2021 analysed 19 clinical trials involving more than 1,100 participants. The researchers concluded that oral collagen supplementation significantly improved skin elasticity and hydration compared with placebo groups, with visible effects typically appearing after eight to twelve weeks.
According to Galway-based dermatologist Dr Laura Lenihan, owner of Dr. Laura Clinic, understanding how collagen works is key to separating fact from marketing.
In one of her informative blog posts shared on her Instagram page (@drlauragp ), Dr Lenihan explains that recent research has changed how experts view collagen supplementation. “Of recent years, there have been lots and lots and lots of studies on collagen, including meta-analysis, randomised, double blind, placebo-controlled trials, which are the gold standard in medicine, and they are suggesting they are showing that collagen supplementation works, specifically marine collagen supplementation.
“It not only shows a benefit for skin, so a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, and elasticity, and also shows benefit for joints. And ideally, marine collagen seems to be better in the studies over bovine."
Combined with Vitamin C
Experts caution that supplements are not a cure-all. The quality and dosage of products vary widely, and lifestyle factors still play a major role in skin ageing. Maintaining a balanced diet rich in vitamin C, zinc and antioxidants, along with daily sun protection, remains essential for preserving collagen naturally.
The amount you take also matters. “The dosage depends,” Dr Laura says. “ I think if you want to really heavy hit, if you are optimising your skincare routine, and you want to go in with the heavy hitters, you're going to want to go with a marine collagen with Vitamin C. Vitamin C helps the production of collagen.”
In the end, the most effective approach may combine both internal and external care. While topical collagen provides hydration and protection, consuming collagen peptides supports the body’s deeper repair processes.
As consumers become more informed, the conversation around anti-ageing is shifting away from short-term fixes toward long-term skin health. Whether mixed into a morning smoothie or layered under a night cream, collagen is likely to remain a key part of beauty routines for years to come.
