Leaping silkily from the sea, a pair of dolphins pause mid-air to nod at the seven-strong crew of the MV Saoirse na Farraige, as she steams past Mutton Island, after departing Galway Harbour last Friday, April 4.
On her first sailing of the summer schedule, glorious sunshine and this salute from the bay’s bottlenosed residents augers well for superstitious sailors.
Two St Brigid’s crosses, a mass card and a clutch of RNLI teddybears denote old traditions on the spaceship-like bridge of Ireland’s largest domestic ferry, which on day one of the new season, is comfortably carrying 300 passengers bound for Inis Mór, with space for 100 more.
Overseeing the 424 ton vessel is 42-year-old Aodán Mac Donnacha from an Cheathrú Rua. There is no traditional steerage in this modern, €6m vessel, purpose-built in Hong Kong for Atlantic waters. Instead of swinging a wheel to point her westward, Mac Donnacha skilfully nudges a tiny joystick instead. He's been with Aran Islands Ferries since 2001.
“To be honest with you, it took a while to get used to her when she arrived,” confesses Mac Donnacha, who speaks of the fleet's high-sided, shallow-draught flagship with pride, affection and a never-ending zeal to keep the boat pristine.
A dizzying array of digital screens, consoles and CCTV feeds supply instant information to the wheelhouse, yet traditional tools like magnetic compass, brass barometer and chart table plotter remain within reach.
“She’s been my baby since she’s new,” he smiles, as he tips the twin throttles forward, and two 1450hp Caterpillar engines thrust the five-year-old ship to plane; smoothly, quietly and economically cruising at a 16 knot lick (30 kmph ) in calm conditions.
She coasts the northern shore of Galway Bay, then arcs southwest after passing Indreabhán. The 44km outbound trip to Kilronan Pier on Inis Mór takes 90 minutes. The return leg is longer, as the bright white boat swings in by the Cliffs of Moher; their stratified magnificence emerging from lapping seas beneath the mysterious Hag’s Head rock.
CREW
Joining him on the bridge is ship's master Robert McInerney from Taylor’s Hill. Aged only 24, the National Maritime College of Ireland (NCMI ) student has piloted tankers in the South China Sea. He aspired to be a civil engineer, but a week’s Transition Year work experience with Galway’s Harbour Master, Captain Brian Sheridan, and port pilot, Kevin Walsh, gave him the taste for salt.
Today’s crew is bowman Aengus ‘Gussy’ Griffin, Cillian King Walsh, Tom Duffy and Peter O’Brien, who hails from the O’Brien family which has ferried turf to Aran since the days of sail. Aran Island Ferries’ founders, Paddy and Sally O’Brien, began the modern service with the 48-seater Dún Aengus in 1983. The company currently operates five ferries with a combined capacity of almost 1,500 passengers, and employs 65 staff.
They say judge a pub by its cellar, so it makes sense to assess a motor vessel below deck. Shauna Dolan (38 ), the first female Second Engineer to graduate NMCI, runs the impossibly clean engine room, with two huge engines, two main generators and a host of ancillary systems to oversee. There is a neat tool bench any garage would kill for.
SHIPSHAPE
After safety, cleanliness is a key theme of Skipper "I don't do captain" Mac Donnacha’s vessel, and he leads by example.
As soon as passengers disembark beneath ocean rinsed skies on Inis Mór, Mac Donnacha is vacuuming gangways with Henry the Hoover, like a man possessed. Bins are emptied, and bags transferred to sister ship Draoícht na Farraige which brings refuse to Roasaveal. The onboard bar is restocked, and crew scrub the heads.
Banter as Béarla agus Gaeilge fills the sun-drenched ship as her sailors make all 44m of her immaculate again, before passengers return later, sunburned and sleepy from the island’s sea air, steamed mussels, and slow pints of porter.
Finally, tranquillity prevails, as crew unwrap packed lunches and pour tea. Smiling islanders on the quayside holler in “Dia dhaoibh!” for the ‘city boat’s’ first visit of the season. Time is marked different on Aran.
But not for Mac Donnacha. He has spotted a six-inch wire retainer out-of-place holding an under-seat lifejacket. He fixes it after a phonecall ordering biocide for the water tanks, checks fuel, then reminds himself out-loud that he “must update the socials.” A 21st Century skipper indeed.
Yesterday was an inspection from the Department of Transport, so there is paperwork to be done. The Advertiser haunting him on the first passage of the season is an extra distraction.
The calm Connemaraman does reveal, that for relief, he sails his 23ft gleoiteog beag, Ceol na Mara. When not thinking about seafaring, he enjoys driving machinery and rock-breaking Rosaveal’s pink granite.
His father, Michealín Mháirtín Chóilín, is originally from Inis Mhic Cionaith (Inchmakinna ), and Aodhán began life at sea in a currach with him. They don’t make ‘em like this anymore.
