I'm sitting having a wonderful mid-afternoon coffee and cake in a beautifully restored hotel dining room. Overhead, the loudspeaker shares news of a storm in Ireland, power outages, and musical requests for Bridie in Bohola. Then, a blast of ads for shops and businesses in the commercial heartbeat of my native county. The familiar tones of MidWest Radio whisper out to me.
But outside, it’s America. The unmistakable sound of the west of Ireland radio station plays in the lift, the dining room, and the bar. It feels like I’ve walked into a hotel in the heart of the west, not one located just 100 yards from Times Square.
The reason for MidWest Radio playing is that the hotel is owned by Bernie and Ann Reilly. Bernie hails from Caherlistrane, and his love for his homeland is on proud display. Outside, Galway and Mayo flags flutter gently in the New York breeze, a sight that feels surreal in Midtown Manhattan.
Last spring, when Mayo flew into town to kick off the football championship, Bernie helped feed 500 hungry Mayo supporters with a hearty breakfast. This coming spring, he and Ann will extend the same hospitality to Galway fans when Padraic Joyce's Tribesmen begin their 2025 All-Ireland challenge against New York in Gaelic Park.
The Merrion Row Hotel sits on 45th Street. The Beaux-Arts building, originally constructed in 1920, was one of Times Square's first hotels. Frequented for decades by local actors, artists, and families seeking a genuine New York experience, it has been reborn as a haven of quiet authenticity. When Bernie and Ann restored it, they honoured the building's rich history while imbuing it with a distinct Irish charm.
This is just one of 10 hostelries in Bernie and Ann's portfolio. During my recent trip to New York, I was fortunate to visit several of them. All bear the hallmark of their personal touch, feeling like family-run establishments — which is no small feat in a city as demanding as New York.
Driving force
Bernie left his native village 44 years ago, initially moving to London for seven years before heading to the States. There, he met his wife Ann (who has Mayo and Monaghan connections ) and who, along with her father, had been running the famous Connolly's Pub adjacent to Merrion Row. "I'd be nothing without my wife Ann," Bernie tells me. "She was the driving force behind creating all these places." Every menu in every establishment contains her touch of culinary magic.
The Merrion Row Hotel, located in the centre of Midtown, is just a short walk from Fifth Avenue, Radio City, and Broadway. Close to everything, it radiates the essence of New York but with a generous dollop of Irish hospitality.
Through his many appearances on MidWest Radio, Bernie has become one of the best-known Irish hoteliers in the Big Apple. The business he runs with Ann and their family is bolstered by a team of loyal staff.
"You have to retain the personal touch, make sure the customer feels special," he tells me one morning as I wait for him to finish overseeing breakfast service in the beautifully-lit dining room. With a word for every guest, Bernie is the epitome of geniality. Sporting a neat white beard and his trademark year-round shorts, the Galwayman exudes vitality. He took up running some years ago and has completed half a dozen New York marathons, including one just weeks ago. "Running is thinking time," he says, and it’s evident in his energy and health.
While I wait, I sip coffee and learn much about Bernie from staff and guests. Several Irish visitors are present, their accents betraying roots in Galway or Mayo. Bernie makes it a point to ensure they feel welcomed, often giving guided tours and sharing his pride in his Irish heritage. The visitors, in turn, beam with pride that one of their own has succeeded so well.
The hotel guest list attracts many Americans, most of whom return repeatedly for the collegiality of the place. The Merrion Row is no soulless skyscraper but six floors of warm hospitality. Someone once described it as "pint-sized elegance," with 28 rooms tucked in the heart of New York and imbued with Irish sensibility.
One couple, captivated by the constant playing of MidWest Radio over the PA system, sought out the station back home. They now regularly participate in the station's popular trivia quiz from their home in Michigan, they told me. Each time they visit New York, they return to the Merrion Row, drawn by its unique charm.
Changing face of New York hospitality
Owning ten hostelries in New York has been a precarious endeavour over the past four years. With the city shuttered during the pandemic, Bernie and Ann worked tirelessly to rebuild their business. "New York has changed since the pandemic," Bernie reflects. "People don't work in the city five days a week anymore, which has been a blow to the hospitality sector. Mondays and Fridays are no longer busy. The world changed during the pandemic, and hospitality in New York reflects that." Despite these challenges, Bernie’s optimism shines through, bolstered by renewed hope that work patterns may eventually return to pre-pandemic norms and give an increased energy to the city again.
The walls of Merrion Row are adorned with quirky Irish art, showing the eccentricity and confidence of the owners; combining cultural authenticity with elegance. Bernie and Ann's other establishments share this tasteful blend, reflecting their commitment to creating spaces that feel real and welcoming.
Next spring, when Galway’s senior football team makes its season debut at Gaelic Park for the Connacht Championship, Bernie's establishments will undoubtedly become the epicentre of the festivities. Galway fans will gather, likely belting out The Fields of Athenry and Galway Girl amid the buzz of Times Square.
Bernie's popularity is evident in the loyalty of his staff, many of whom have worked with him for decades. They speak of the Galwayman with reverence, admiring his dedication and generosity. Bernie ensures good workers from back home are well cared for, fostering a family-like atmosphere across his businesses.
As I leave the Merrion Row Hotel, I carry with me a deep appreciation for this extraordinary fusion of Irish hospitality and New York spirit that Bernie and Ann have cultivated and I cannot wait to get back there soon.
Their story is a testament to hard work, resilience, and the enduring power of community. Whether you're Irish or not, stepping into one of their establishments feels like coming home — a rare and cherished experience in the bustling heart of Manhattan. See for yourselves next time you're heading to the Big Apple.
The Merrion Row Hotel is located at 119 W 45th St, New York, NY 10036 212 461 4920 [email protected]
