It is probable that if the coastal route had been chosen for the Clifden railway, rather than the Oughterard/ Maam Cross way, the line would still be viable today. The idea of the so-called ‘Balfour lines’, proposed by an enlightened chief secretary for Ireland, Arthur J Balfour, and given the go-ahead in the 1889 Light Railways (Ireland ) Act, was to give far-flung towns and communities access to bigger markets, and to grasp the benefits of employment and opportunities.
At that time, by far the biggest population existed along the Galway coast, where thousands of people survived on subsistance farming, and small-scale, near-shore fishing. Access to bigger markets could have provided substantial opportunities; yet instead the railway was built through the least populated area in Connemara, and despite its benefits for the town of Clifden, it was closed after 30 years as it was uneconomic, and troublesome.
Because the wrong route was chosen, which was also by far the cheapist, the project was doomed before the first train left Galway for Oughterard on August 22 1894.
Even before the Balfour initiative various enthusiastic groups had already discussed a number of directions for a rail link. A number of imperatives had driven this thinking. Much of the region’s economic activity along the coast revolved around the fishing industry. Yet lack of markets inhibited development, leaving the way clear for Scottish boats to exploit the lack of competition. Also the recent memory of the Great Famine must have shown that lack of communication left isolated communities beyond immediate help.
Initially there were plans for a steam-tram service linking the coastal villages with Clifden, but once the Midland Great Western of Ireland Railway Company, (MGWR ), to give it its full title, commenced operations between Dublin and Galway in August 1851, steam-driven trains were the only way forward.
The cheapest route
There were some imaginative ideas for a proposed coastal route, which would include leaving Galway, passing through the Claddagh and Salthill, Barna, Costello, Screeb, Inver, Gowla, Bertraghboy Bay, Cashel, Ballinahinch, reaching Clifden by the Roundstone Road.
It was generally agreed that desirable as this coastal link-up would be, the overall distance between Galway and Clifden would be considerable longer, and much more expensive than a direct route.
Variations, however, or flights of fancy, were added including a plan for a light rail system (narrow gauge ) which would commence at the Irish Church Mission School at Taylor’s Hill (Scoil Fhursa ), and would terminate at Clifden’s Market Square. A branch line from which, would serve Ballinafad and Roundstone.
Another light railway plan proposed a line from Galway to serve Headford, Cong, Maam, Leenane, Letterfrack and Clifden.
But then as now, despite the public’s growing appetite for light rail, the local authorities were unimpressed, and investors were cautious. Finally, after 30 years of meetings and debate, the MGWR submitted its own plans for a direct route through the middle of Connemara, and the Government, which would provide most of the costs involved (far in excess of £200,000 ), agreed. MGWR was, after all a private company who had a responsibility to its shareholders to be profitable. It had no altruistic mission to satisfy the coastal communities’ needs. This was the cheapest route. It would provide employment for hundreds of men during its construction, and if it did not directly help the fishing industry, it would bring tourists into the heart of Connemara, and be a major boost for Clifden.
Shantalla marble
Interestingly other additions to the accepted plan were also being considered. With the exception of the Shantalla siding, they never saw the light of day. A particularly bizarre idea was the Ulster and Connaught Light Railway, which would have connected Clifden to Shrule where one branch would run north to Ballinrobe, and another south to Galway before continuing up towards Co Leitrim.
Interesting that the Galway Harbour Board did not forget the excitement of more than 30 years previously when Galway dreamed of creating a deep-water harbour off Furbo, to provide a mail service, and a comfortable trans-Atlantic passage, in competition with other shipping lines busy with the mass emigration of Europeans to America. All the main advocates of the Galway Line, John Orrell Lever, Fr Peter Daly and others were long dead, yet the Harbour Board sought permission in 1912 to build a four mile branch line, through Knocknacarra out to the proposed harbour at Lenarevagh. It was refused.
However, in 1911, a branch line, was taken from west of the Corrib viaduct, before it crossed the Newcastle Road, into the 13 acres of marble quarry now occupied by Maunsell’s Park. It was known as the Shantalla siding. The marble was described as ‘of a very fine mottled red or pink colour, with very pleasing green shades through it’. Twenty men were employed, digging and polishing the marble for ornamental use.The quarry closed within 10 years, and the area was filled with rubble to make way for housing development.
The king’s visit
Before work would start on the direct route through Connemara, there was one proviso, however, that the land through which the train would pass, would be donated free by the landowner. Most of that land, which was originally part of the vast Martin estate, was owned by the Law Life Assurance Society which had seized the Martin lands in lieu of considerable unpaid debts. In 1872 Richard Berridge, a London brewer, bought 160,000 acres making him the largest land owner in Ireland.* He generously gave all the land that MGWR required, but he never got much thanks for it as relations between the company and himself were rarely amicable.
In return for the land MGWR agreed to build a number of cottages to replace the ones that it removed during track laying. Berridge was furious that the replacement cottages were not up to standard, and he demanded compensation, which was eventually paid.
When the track was completed and tourists were coming in ever increasing numbers, MGWR decided to build its own hotel at Recess. The company already had hotels at Galway and Mallaranny, and were innovative in their marketing. It offered attractive holiday packages from Dublin, where travel (in specially adapted ‘luxury’ carriages ), accommodation and sight-seeing, could all be had for one all-in price. It was a convenient and popular idea. Berridge was a bit miffed at this development, as he had hoped to open his own hotel. He offered to sell shooting rights on his estate, but MGWR was not interested. Sparks regularly caused fires along the track particularly in dry summer weather. But when Berridge complained he was told it was probably caused by someone burning rubbish.
Annoyed that cattle from the Berridge estate strayed on to the tracks from time to time, MGWR locked gates and, initially, refused to give Berridge the key. There were difficulties between the company and its generous benefactor, with the location of the Ballynahinch station and the removal of trees.
But the success of the Clifden railway and the hotel at Recess received world attention when in July 1903, King Edward and his entourage landed at Killary harbour and travelled by motorcade to Recess hotel, where they stayed overnight, before travelling by train back to Dublin the following day. As a result the area became even more popular with the rich and famous, many of whom now owned fishing lodges in the area. The hotel was one of the best known hotels in the country. It did acquire fishing rights from the Berridge estate, but its famous boast was that it had electric lighting in all its rooms.
Business boomed until it came to an abrupt end on the morning of October 6 1922. Having told al the staff to leave the premises,. the hotel was burned by the Irregulars, who supposedly feared that the hotel could be used by the pro-treaty forces following in pursuit. MGWR claimed £50,000 in compensation, but only received £16, 670, 5s and 8d.
A memorable event
Probably the most famous man to use the line was an Indian gentleman, the Maharajah of Nawanagar. His name was Ranjitsinji, and he was also a cricket legend. He was one of the best batsmen of his time, played 15 Test matches for England, and was the first Indian to play international cricket.
In 1924 he was the first head of an Indian state to visit the newly independent Ireland, and instantly fell in love with the country. That same year he purchased Ballynahinch castle and its extensive grounds, where he spent frequent holidays, enjoying fishing and shooting. He was immensely popular with the local people. His annual arrival at Ballynahinch station, with all his Indian staff dressed in colourful saris and uniforms, was a memorable event. As his train approached, his staff would place firecrackers along the line creating noise and joy. He died of heart failure in 1933, two years before the Galway to Clifden line closed.
Next week: The Galway-Salthill Tramway Company
NOTES: * The estate contained a number of fishing lodges, including those at Inagh, Fermoyle, and Screebe. It remained in the family’s possession for two generations. Over 70,000 acres were vested in the Congested District’s Board, and the family retained a house in the locality, and fishing at Screebe until late 20th century.
This week I am leaning heavily on Jonathan Beaumont’s excellent Rails Through Connemara - The Galway-Clifden Railway, published by The Oakwood Press, on sale €19.50.
Listen to Tom Kenny and Ronnie O'Gorman elaborating on topics they have covered in this week's paper and much more in this week's Old Galway Diary Podcast.
