There are certain scents that inevitably trigger memories of Christmases past. The smells of Christmas are every bit as important as the sights and sounds, and one of the finest olfactory fixes at this time of year has to be in Goya's. Come December, the usual stack of cardboard cake boxes behind the counter are cleared away to make room for the rows of fat plum puddings wearing an elegant livery of bows — red, green, and blue ribbons depending on their poundage. The aromas of citrus and spice, cinnamon and vanilla, have been bringing Christmas to life on Kirwan's Lane for many years.
Goya’s is Galway’s original café and bakery. There is always a friendly atmosphere and the food is, of course, delicious. I am particularly partial to the light and sharp lemon meringue pie and the deep cups of frothy hot chocolate. The deli is a relatively recent addition to the café. Lunch is served between 12.30pm and 3pm, when you can sample the delicious home-made soup, individual quiches and pies, a range of salads, and toasted specials are also served during the day. Goya's excellent pâté is always a particularly nice lunch. I have often taken some home thinking that with such a big container I would put half into the freezer for another time. This has never happened, we always polish off the lot.
Many of us older folks will remember Goya's as a tiny little café on the end of Quay Street. Emer Murray would spend her days atop the steep, narrow, stairs of her shop in the tiny kitchen, mixing, creaming, frosting, and baking the range of cakes and delicacies she has become famous for. Fast forward a few years and a lot of urban renewal, Goya's is still a lovely, cosy, but modern spot tucked away in the peace and quiet of Kirwan's Lane, just 30 seconds from its old address.
Goya's has a large range of cakes and tarts. There are fudge cakes, many flavoured Madeiras, baked cheesecake, and lots of other treats. The three layer chocolate gateau is a favourite with lots of people — a 'light as air' chocolate sponge, soaked with alcohol and filled with fresh cream and chocolate mousse, so can you really blame them? The large cakes and tarts are available to buy whole and are especially good value this way.
There are teas, hot chocolates, and freshly ground coffees all year round, and in the summer there is often homemade lemonade and other cooling juice drinks, perfect when you are seated outside in the courtyard. You can always find an excuse to drop in for a cappuccino and a wedge of chocolate cake or a scone. The dropping in often leads to buying a few of the small cakes to take away, or one of the substantial savoury pies on a day at this busy time of year when you have little time to cook. It is much tastier to have a spinach tart and salad from the deli counter than any of the alternatives from the supermarket freezer.
It is something of a tradition for people to order Goya's cakes and puds and indeed, there is not much Emer does not know about cake — raisins, sultanas, cherries, almonds, and candied peel are soaked in orange juice and brandy for weeks before being transformed into seasonal goodies. These prized puddings, traditionally iced Christmas cakes, crumbly mince pies, and the rather sinful sherry trifle all form part of the Christmas tableau.
Wedding cakes are also available for 'the happiest day of your life'. Goya's has become the first choice for the blushing bride, whatever her tastes. Traditional rich fruit cake come in loads of styles, with fresh flowers to complement the bride's chosen colors. Enjoy the towers of fairy cakes, madeira cake in orange, lemon, vanilla, or chocolate filled with a luxurious butter cream, chocolate biscuit cake, or a spicy moist carrot cake studded with plump sultanas.
My daughters are on first name terms with Emer. Saturdays often see them with faces pressed up against the screen door of the bakery hoping to catch a glimpse of the woman herself. "Emer Murray is the best baker in Ireland," as John McKenna rightly said, and she is also, as they say around here, "a complete dote" and a joy to deal with. Do drop in for your festive goodies, you will not find better. If things don't work out with my current husband, I might even get my next wedding cake from her. Just sayin'.
Goya's is open Monday to Saturday 9.30am to 6pm. Lunch is served between 12.30pm and 3pm. Goya's Fine Food, 2-3 Kirwins Lane, Galway. Tel: +353 (0 ) 91 567010. Email: [email protected].
