I had been to Northern Ireland on many occasions, but yet, I never felt that I had been to it. That I'd never sat back, taken the time to stroll around, to experience the variety of break types it offers. I suppose that emanates from the perception we had of Northern Ireland through decades of growing up and not seeing it as a potentially wonderful location to have a holiday.
This I was determined to correct, so I set out this autumn to spend some time in Belfast and Derry and at several points in between and I am hooked. So much so, that I intend to go back again and again, because there is so much to do and discover.
We arrived into Belfast on a damp Sunday evening, to the Hampton by Hilton hotel in the heart of the city, with murals of King Billy adorning the walls opposite.
The plan was to spend two or three days in the city, then wind our way along the Causeway Coast and take in Derry and Fermanagh on the cyclical route home.
As soon as we landed in Belfast, I was taken by what a cool place it has become. Belfast has a red-brick look that sees it increasingly used as a film location for South Dublin or North of England settings, but boosted by the Titanic Quarter and the massive trade in political tourism, the place was rocking.
In terms of a culinary experience, Northern Ireland is very rewarding. I was going off recommendations made by the Northern Ireland Tourist body Tourism NI, but they guided me well. Every eaterie had atmosphere and character and smacked of a new confident Northern Ireland. Contemporary design aligned to old industrial. In Belfast, I recommend Fratellis, a classic Itlian with spirit, and also Flame, a unique venue with a theatrical twist and one of Belfast’s premium restaurants. In Derry, Browns in Town is wonderfully warming place with loads of atmosphere and great food.
Loads to see
Back to Belfast, there is loads to do and see: Obviously, the Titanic Quarter tops the bill, but it is just one of many must-see attractions.
Titanic Belfast extends over nine interactive galleries, with multiple dimensions to the exhibition, drawing together special effects, dark rides, full-scale reconstructions and innovative interactive features. Explore the shipyard, travel to the depths of the ocean and uncover the true legend of Titanic, in the city where it all began. Make sure you take time for a coffee or a drink in the Titanic Hotel, located in the former Harland and Wolff drawing rooms across the way.
A new £1.3 million visitor attraction at Belfast City Hall was officially opened in May. It brings together artefacts from both traditions and cultures in a narrative agreed by all party leaders that charts the history of Belfast from quiet hamlet to the vibrant, innovative, attractive city it is today. Visitors will be able to journey through 16 rooms in the east wing of City Hall which has been divided into six separate zones highlighting different aspects of the city of Belfast.
Just a short walk from the city centre is the Ulster Museum which tells the unique human story of this part of Ireland and the collections will take you to all corners of the globe. Dinosaurs, Egyptian mummies and modern masterpieces all have their place at Belfast’s Ulster Museum. So, whether you’re an art lover, a history enthusiast, awash with childlike curiosity or an actual child, there is something there for you.
The Black Taxi tour takes you around the areas of North and West Belfast synonymous with the years of conflict where we use the murals, as ‘The world's greatest open air art gallery’ to relate events from an historical perspective and you can follow the example of Bill Clinton and the Dalai Lama and write your own message on the Peace Wall.
We also drove out to Stormont on our last day in the city, parked and made the long walk to the building, where you are allowed to walk around inside and take a tour if necessary. Very impressive if divisive construction that must be seen to be appreciated.
And then out of Belfast and along the Causeway Coast.
Cross the rope bridge
Rated as one of the Top Five Road Trips and when you drive it, you’ll know why. Start in Belfast and follow the coast road through the nine Glens of Antrim, winding between picturesque villages and unforgettable scenic locations. Featuring three beaches with the coveted blue-flag designation, Portrush is one of the most famous resort towns in Ireland. Royal Portrush golf club recently hosted The 148th Open, for which an estimated 190,000 spectators flocked to the lovely seaside town.
The Giant's Causeway has a wonderful new visitor centre and shuttle buses take tourists to and from the causeway as it's a bit of a trek if you don't fancy the 2km walk.
Before that we stopped at the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. However, remember, visitors must book online to cross the bridge. Suspended across a 30-metre deep and 20-metre-wide chasm, this famous rope bridge was first erected in 1755 to connect salmon fishermen to the rocky island of Carrick-a- Rede. A must-do if visiting this part of the world.
And then into Derry. We stayed in the Waterfoot Hotel on the outskirts of the city and travelled in and out for sightseeing and dining.
The Martin McCrossan walking tour is a must — Based in the heart of the historic city of Derry, this innovative family-owned tourism venture, puts choice, quality and service at the centre of its activities. The tour has been described by many as possibly the Best Value Walking Tour on the island of Ireland.
With over fifty natural and built attractions in the region, such as Derry’s Walls, The Bogside, The Peoples Gallery (Murals ) The Bloody Sunday Story, The History of the Apprentice Boys, The Marching Season Traditions. The walking tour has been listed by many as one of the best experiences they have had on their travels anywhere.
Any city would be proud to be associated with a smash-hit comedy like Derry Girls. But there can’t be too many places in the world that would eulogise it with a giant mural on the side of a restaurant. The Derry Girls Mural, on the end wall of Badgers Bar and Restaurant, perfectly captures the cheek and charm of Derry-Londonderry’s famous five. Take the obligatory selfie with Erin, Orla, Clare, Michelle and the 'wee English fella' James.
Derry is chic
Since opening in 2011 the Peace Bridge has become an iconic structure for the city and a focal point in city activities and events. A walk and cycle bridge, it connects the two sides of the River Foyle, forming the city’s third river crossing. Costing over £14m to build, the bridge crosses the river from behind the Guildhall to the former Parade Ground at Ebrington Barracks – linking the Walled City to the new developments at Ebrington and St Columb’s Park
As I mentioned above, Derry benefits from some wonderful eateries. My fave was Browns in Town, an award-winning restaurant, renowned for providing a casual dining experience in modern and comfortable surroundings. This trendy venue is a hit with foodies who enjoy Browns great quality food combined with excellent service and exceptional value.
In summary, my time in Northern Ireland was an eye-opener to the possibility of the types of holiday available. And this was without taking in the wonderful beaches that are accessible from Derry and the Causeway Coast, or the delights of Fermanagh and Tyrone.
At a time when we are less tolerant of the delays incurred in airports, there was something invigorating in being able to have a different experience just a few hours from us here in the west. I would wholeheartedly recommend a short break in Northern Ireland in 2023.
This trip was organised in conjunction with Tourism NI. For further information about places to stay or things to see and do in Northern Ireland please visit www.discovernorthernireland.com
