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There are certain scents that inevitably trigger memories of Christmases past. The smells of Christmas are every bit as important as the sights and sounds, and one of the finest olfactory fixes at this time of year has to be in Goya's. Come December, the usual stack of cardboard cake boxes behind the counter are cleared away to make room for the rows of fat plum puddings wearing an elegant livery of bows — red, green, and blue ribbons depending on their poundage. The aromas of citrus and spice, cinnamon and vanilla, have been bringing Christmas to life on Kirwan's Lane for many years.