Cedar Restaurant at the Athlone Springs Hotel in Monksland, a few minutes drive from the centre of Athlone, is a striking impressive space on arrival, with purple-rich curtains cascading down from a high ceiling a level above, over impressive glass windows that particularly capture the morning sun if you happen to be arriving for breakfast. Cream, maroon, and purple upholstery add to the Provencal colour scheme, along with a fetching light purple blind dividing part of the room that captures how you’d imagine the cornfields of Elysium. A baby piano by one of the windows adds an extra layer of sophistication.
Readers of this paper will be well aware that the hotel’s genial head chef is Michael Talty who for a number of years has been providing the hugely popular weekly recipes. A proponent of the theory that it’s best to cook when possible with what’s grown or produced locally, Michael can often be seen in Athlone farmers market where he shops a lot, particularly, for vegetables and cheeses.
While there is an all-day bar menu from noon, the real treat is dinner in the evening when the restaurant takes on another dimension. For starters, options include a duo of Galia melon and watermelon with a berry compote and raspberry dressing (€6.95 ), creamy chicken, mushroom, and tarragon bouchée (€6.95 ), the herb crumbled cubes of Brie with a crisp salad and cranberry compote (€6.95 ), or the ever popular warm goat’s cheese Bruschetta with crushed olives and sun-dried tomatoes on oven-baked ciabatta (€7.50 ).
The main courses are equally eclectic with choices to suit most palates. The list includes pan seared fillet of fresh cod with buttered green beans, red onions, and mixed pepper salsa (€17.95 ); breast of free-range chicken with Mediterranean vegetables and mozzarella cheese stuffing with sweet potato purée in a tarragon cream sauce (€16.95 ); wok-roasted Mediterranean vegetables with sweet chilli hoi-sin and noodles (€16.95 ); shredded duck stir-fry with sweet chilli, soy, ginger, and honey with buttered noodles (€17.95 ); and house-aged sirloin steak with crispy onions and peppercorn and brandy jus (€22.95 ). If you’re looking for an insider recommendation, head chef Michael Talty is particularly enthusiastic about his caramelised Roscommon shank of lamb which is braised in stout and crushed rosemary (€18.95 ) and is “extremely popular”. All main courses are served with either fresh garden vegetables, potato of the day, mixed salad sautéed onions, sautéed mushrooms, garlic potato, or bowl of fries. An extra portion carries a supplement of €4. Specials such as baked fillet of lemon sole with herbed cream sauce also feature from time to time.
As for desserts, the selection includes warm chocolate brownie with vanilla ice-cream and chocolate sauce; homemade apple crumble with Chantilly cream; and bread and butter pudding with cinnamon and raisins, all priced at €4.75. The wine list has a number of favourites supplied by Wines Direct in Mullingar starting at €17.95 including recommendations such as the Gouguenheim Torrontes (€23.95 ), a very distinctive and aromatic white from Mendoza, and the elegant Four Sisters Shiraz (€28.95 ), a rich fruit-driven red from Australia’s Goulburn Valley.
Overall, an elegant enjoyable venue celebrating one of Athlone’s best culinary ambassadors.
Cedar Restaurant at the Athlone Springs Hotel, Monksland, Athlone is open all week for breakfast from 7-11am, with a bar menu from noon until 9pm with dinner served at 5.30pm until 9.30pm. An early bird is also available from 5.30pm until 7.30pm. Contact (090 ) 6444444 or www.athlonespringshotel.com for further details.
