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Week III

Ireland has many great pubs but in general, especially outside the cities, we do not have great pub food. It is one of the challenges that needs to be addressed as we hone our emerging Irish food culture. Our pubs are a huge draw for visitors from abroad, but the food on offer inside is often substandard. Gill's Bar and Restaurant in Athenry bucks this trend, it is an establishment with a gastropub sensibility, proper craft beers on offer, and more than decent food.

Dulse is the re-invention of the old Mulberry’s in Barna Village Centre, now almost a suburb of ever growing Galway city. Mulberry's was a surf and turf sort of place. It did a good selection of fish — crab claws, sole on the bone, monkfish, and mussels all featured. You would find dishes such as slow roast pork belly with broad beans, pea puree, and calvados reduction and prettily plated McGeogh's Smoked Black Pudding, with sweet potato puree, asparagus, and caramelised apple. Ballyhoura mushroom risotto with aged parmesan and truffle oil or pan-fried fillet of sea bass would arrive on a bed of warm fennel and orange salad and lemon sorbet with prosecco with a selection of perfect little berries floating on the surface. The reception area and cosy wine bar also served a few tapas-style dishes — crab cakes, prawns pil pil, calamari, spicy meatballs, or chicken liver paté. There was a comfortable waiting area also to accommodate the busy takeout trade of pasta and bistro dishes.