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This is the time of year when berries really come into their own. It wasn’t a good year for blackberries – too much rain and not enough sun – but they are well past it by now. (You should never, in any case, pick blackberries after Michaelmas (September 29) because, as I was told as a child, on Michaelmas eve the devil goes around busily spitting on them.) The rowan berries are on the way out, but hawthorns are adorned with masses of jewel-like dark red berries, tiny snowballs are appearing on the snowberry, and the holly is already looking Christmassy.